Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2022

Very dark. Rich and concentrated and much more conventional than the Pichon Baron 2022. Slightly pinched tannins, but then gloriously approachable fruit. A bit inky but very glamorous and dramatic.

As ever this stands out from the pack. Elegant, finessed, deep diving into bitter black chocolate, mandarin rind, liquorice bud, anis, fennel, crayon, graphite and slate, with opulent depths to the blackberry and damson fruit, so many textural components to the construction of the wine, clever winemaking, love the gentlest wash of clove spice on the finish that speaks to the conditions of the vintage without ever overpowering. Great stuff, this will age for many years, but no need to wait as long as with vintages such as 2016, even 2020 – I suggest five to eight years here.

What perfect aromas of blackcurrants, lead pencil, violets, blood oranges and blood. Some iron. Medium- to full-bodied, this has incredible tannins that are completely loaded and integrated, melting into the wine with such a glorious mouthfeel. The finish goes on and on, lightly austere in the most sophisticated way. Racy and rigorously focused. 78% cabernet sauvignon, 17% merlot and 5% cabernet franc. Try after 2030, but already a new benchmark for this estate.

The 2022 Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has turned out even better in bottle than I anticipated, bursting from the glass with aromas of cassis and blackberries mingled with scents of licorice, violets and pencil shavings. Full-bodied, layered and enveloping, it's suave, seamless and complete, with faultless precision, pristine integration of tannin, controlled sweetness and a long, expansive finish. The 2022 manages to unite the sensuality that's the estate's calling card and the ripeness of the vintage on the one hand, with a sense of Pauillac classicism on the other, threading the needle to deliver one of the finest wines of the vintage and a benchmark Pichon Comtesse. It's a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that spent 18 months in barriques (three months more than was formerly the case), two-thirds of which were new. As I wrote en primeur, there's more than a hint of the 1982 about this wine, and like the 1982, the 2022 will offer an exceptionally wide drinking window.

Deep dark ruby in colour with an almost inky, opaque core, purple reflections, and subtle brightening on the rim. On the nose, a very inviting bouquet of cassis and clove, dark wild berries, ripe cherry, and fine nougat. The full-bodied, elegant palate is fresh and complex with a sweet, chocolatey texture, great length and harmony with tremendous drive, and a saline finish that is never-ending. The successor to the legendary 1982 is born, the most delicate Pauillac in a long time.

Looking at the flagship 2022 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse De Lalande, it's based on 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and the balance Cabernet Franc that spent 19 months in two-thirds new oak and one-third in once-used barrels. Its similarly deep purple hue is followed by a magical, heavenly 2022 that has a layered, full-bodied profile that brings an incredibly floral character as well as a huge core of darker currant fruits, ripe, polished, velvety tennis, no hard edges, and a thrilling finish. It’s a quintessential Comtesse that brings the forward, supple elegance of the château while still offering plenty of classic Pauillac depth, structure, and character. Give bottles 5-7 years and enjoy over the following 40+.

The 2022 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has a very sensual, perfumed, floral bouquet with crushed violets and licorice infusing the black fruit. It needs time to really open in the glass, manifesting more underlying graphite scents with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannins and quicksilver thread of acidity. It offers the sensuality of this Pauillac Classed Growth with structure and poise, just firming up a little with time, which is not a bad thing. This estate has enjoyed a scintillating run of form in recent years, and this latest bottled vintage shows that there is no end in sight. (N

This brims with notes of dark currant, blackberry and black cherry preserves that sparkle subtly with reserved energy, while sweet tobacco, licorice snap, chestnut, violet and ink notes work harmoniously through the long, crumpled velvet finish. A late humus echo provides a beautiful counterpoint, which just makes you want to go right back and start the experience all over with another sip. A total stunner. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. (JM)