Penfolds Yattarna 2018

The 2018 Yattarna Chardonnay leads with marzipan and apple skins, white pepper, scratched citrus, crushed shells, saffron and sugared almonds. In the mouth, the wine is insanely silken and composed, like carded fleece, and the length of flavor feels interminable. This has aged what feels like about three seconds—it is timeless, ageless, restrained and long. Wow. If you can drink these wines from this age window and onward, you will be doing yourself the greatest service. This is a first-rate Chardonnay. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

Translucent gold. Vibrant, mineral- and lees-tinged citrus and orchard fruit aromas show fine clarity and hints of honeysuckle and iodine. Displays sharp definition on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon and pear skin flavors that show firm tension and back-end lift. The mineral quality repeats strongly on the impressively persistent finish, which leaves behind resonating and citrus fruit and floral notes.

A blend of Tasmania, Tumbarumba and Adelaide Hills fruit, this has an intense, stony and mineral freshness with a flinty edge and a wealth of lemon sherbet, white peaches and crushed stones on the nose. Oak is deeply buried. The palate has such striking and intense depth. It’s layered and long and really asserts itself as the most complex and most powerful chardonnay in this release. The depth and pristine grade of fruit here are impressive. Deep, pithy finish. Drink over the next eight years. Screw cap. (2020)

This white is incredibly intense, with tremendous precision to the white peach, Meyer lemon and flinty mineral notes, plus hints of white pepper, lime zest and makrut lime leaf. The sleek up-front concentration and vibrant acidity give way to a supple undertone of salted butter. The harmonious finish offers clarity and generosity. Drink now through 2030. 40 cases imported.

This is an excellent bottling of Penfolds's most premium Chard. It offers drinkability now with the promise of a long life ahead. Always a polished, rich style, this vintage deftly balances the barrel and lees characters of oyster shell and nougat with notes of fresh lemon and peach. The palate is linear and focused with a lovely lift of saline acidity, chalky texture and a long salt-and-lemon finish. Drink now–2031, at least. Christina Pickar

Fine, complex, really rather burgundian nose and great crystalline fruit and grip without austerity. The acidity level is really quite high compared with many other Chardonnays. Pretty smart. You would be very happy with this if labelled Puligny-Montrachet actually. Good stuff and it should have a long life but could be broached already. (JR)