Penfolds Bin 169 2022

This is really fantastic, with blackcurrants, blackberries, dark tobacco and cassis bush. It’s full-bodied and layered with gorgeous tannins that are caressing and focused. Plush texture, yet it’s focused, framed, bright and vivid. No hints of mint or eucalyptus. A classical approach to Coonawarra cabernet. Needs three to five years to really show its greatness. Best after 2027.

The Bin 169 is Cabernet Sauvignon from Coonawarra and matured in French oak. The 2022 Bin 169 Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon is succulent and fresh. Certainly, it is powerfully structured and concentrated but manages vitality and detail. It is Coonawarra more than anything, and in a great, ferruginous, pure sort of way. In terms of context, I like this vintage as much as the 2010 vintage, which I view to be the greatest Bin 169 made since its inception in 2008. I note that I have historically given the 2019 a higher score the 2021; however, on other occasions have scored it several points lower. Different bottles, different environments. 14.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork.

Stylistically, this cuvée tends to be viewed as an elegant iteration of Cabernet Sauvignon, within the context of the collection. This is true, to a certain extent. However, it is possessed of imposing structure and firm tannins, the impact of which is softened in the Bin 707 due to its élevage in American oak. This rigid, imposing, tannin structure of the Bin 169 is indicative of the style inherent in Coonawarra, and it sits well within the wine. While I prefer French oak influence in Cabernet generally, I find the Bin 169 wine has less flesh and less cushioning than its sibling 707 and will evolve in a leafier, "cigar box" direction. They are quite different styles, with distinct futures ahead of them.

A steady growing season in Coonawarra during 2022 provided fruit that is more restrained and focused than assertive. As a result, the mulberry and plum tones are kept in check with black olive and cassis to favour savoury tones ahead of sweet. While the palate texture is already rich, long and velvety, it has the sturdy architecture and tension in its tannin profile to deliver an especially strong wine after a decade of cellaring.

Dark purple. Very rich nose. And then such a firm structure. Makes one sit up! Long. Elegant and refreshing. Long and complete. Sophisticated. Bone-dry finish. Very pure and transparent.