Lustrous, shaded blackish crimson. Sweet, opulent but fresh nose with great appeal and the merest hint of top-quality oak and just little bit of Cabernet leafiness. Refreshing topnotes. On the savoury finish there is just a suggestion of that high alcohol level but overall it leaves an appetising, persistent impression. Very well made.

The finesse and depth to this is really impressive, showing brightness and super-integrated, polished and balanced tannins that go on for minutes. Fresh herbs, cherries, currants and a hint of vanilla. Long, almost endless finish. Drink after 2028, but already gorgeous.

Ornellaia stands as proof, if it were needed, that Bordeaux varieties can really deliver magic in the Tuscan landscape. Blackberry, underbrush, dried roses, bay leaf, liqourice, fennel, raspberries, layers of baking spice, balsamic, turmeric and saffran. Will benefit from a few years more in bottle, and will go for decades. Director Axel Heinz in one of his last vintages, winemaker Olga Fusari. 119ha estate. 70% new oak, with the blend taking place after 12 months ageing, then left for a further six months in barrel, and 12 months in bottle before release.

The Ornellaia 2021 Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia offers an extra layer of richness, generosity and plushness that shapes a very open-knit and exuberant Tuscan red. The blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 7% Petit Verdot. You feel the fruit and oak weight of the wine, the extract and the 15% alcohol content. All of these elements come together to big effect. From that power, you get black cherry, dark fruit, sweet spice and barbecue smoke. The fruit tannins are young, and this edition of Ornellaia proves worthy for medium or long-term drinking, especially as it softens up with more bottle age.