António Madeira a Centenária 2021

The 2021 A Centenária refers to a centenary vineyard (actually around 130 years old) planted with 60% Jaen (Mencía) and the rest a complex field blend of more than 20 varieties, some still not identified, Tinta Amarela, Baga, Negro Mouro, Marufo, Tinta Pinheira, Bastardo, Tinta Carvalha, Tourigo do Douro, Cidreiro, Coração de Galo, Alfrocheiro and Alicante-Bouschet, etc. The difference here is the energy and depth on the palate. The nose is also incredibly perfumed and elegant, like the 2021 Vinha da Serra, floral and spicy. The three single-vineyard wines have different personalities, and that's why they bottle them separately. It has 12% alcohol, a pH of 3.74 and 5.72 grams of acidity. It had a soft vinification with a long infusion in search of elegance. It spent 18 months in used 225- and 500-liter oak barrels. 1,000 bottles were filled in August 2023.

This perfumed A Centenaria opens with aromas of flowers, red fruit and subtle dried herbs. The palate is super-elegant and seamless, with timidly creamy, almost nonexistent tannins. Ethereal yet profound and substantial. From a vineyard planted around 1890 with around 45 different varieties, predominately jaen, this is only 0.2 hectares. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now or hold.

Mid-to-deep crimson. This is also really fragrant and floral and smells of tiny little berries, red and black, with a wildness to it. Floral at the more herbal end of the spectrum rather than the sweeter floral notes of Vinha da Serra. Tannins are very different here, still extremely fine but chalkier. Excellent freshness without high acidity (which is characteristic of Jaen if you analyse the acidity). Juicy, light on its feet, yet with real concentration. Incredibly persistent. Delicious now but should age gracefully. (JH)