Chateau Haut-Brion 2018

Waves of cassis, cherry puree and blackberry paste roll through in this showstopper, with notes of tea, sandalwood, iron and anise providing an entourage for the fruit. A subtle warm earth accent underscores the finish without intruding on the texture. A large-scaled yet eminently refined wine. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2025 through 2045.

The 2018 Haut-Brion is composed of 49.4% Merlot, 38.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11.9% Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple in color, the wine needs a lot of swirling before it begins to release a whole complex melody of notes, one at a time to begin: tilled earth, followed by pronounced licorice, then crushed rocks, then the preserved plums. Eventually, it all comes together into a fascinating crescendo of intense crème de cassis, rose oil, wild blueberries and kirsch notes, giving way to quiet, persistent leitmotif scents of cinnamon stick, truffles and redcurrant jelly. The medium to full-bodied palate delivers all this and more, revealing tightly wound black fruit, red berry and exotic spice layers within a solid, wonderfully plush frame and seamless freshness, finishing with epic length and loads of earth and mineral sparks. This is a profound, highly intellectual, multilayered baby, which will require a good 7-8 years to begin to sing its incredible song, then should cellar a further 40 years at least. By way of reference, think 1989 with more restraint and even greater purity.

Fourth generation of the Dillon family at Haut-Brion today, overseeing the extremely challening act of keeping a First Growth at the top of its game. This is laying down the gauntlet - powerfully built, complex and succulent layers of tight black fruits and grilled oak, overlaid with charcoal, cloves, tobacco, slate, sage and smoked earth, nuanced and unwilling to show its hand too soon. Needs a good five to eight years more, and will age for decades. Harvested 6 September to 2 October, yields 44hl/ha. 3.8pH.

Barrel Sample. This wine has opulence and concentration, with crisp flavors of ripe yellow fruits. There is so much going on in this impressive wine. It has benefited from the hot summer, yielding a ripe wine that still manages to remain crisp and tight on the finish.

Deep dark ruby garnet, opaque core, purple reflections, DELICATE watery edge. Somewhat restrained, fine dark forest berry fruit, discreet herbal savouriness, nuances of cherries, some nougat, discreet oak touch in the BACKGROUND. Taut, tightly meshed, SAVOURY tannins, fine sweet cherry fruit, vivid tannins that still seem a bit brittle, very lively style, salty minerality on the finish, nougat on the back palate.

Tasted blind. Paler than most of its peers. Sweet, neat start with some fresh minerality. And some pretty dry tannins on the end.

Broad-shouldered, with impact and a fairly swift tannic build-up. The construction is clearly laid out, with spicy, concentrated rosemary and cinnamon, and ripe berry and fig fruit character. A confident Le Clarence, if a little marked by a hot summer. Ageing in 20% new barrels. 36.7% of production.

A quintessential expression of this terroir, the 2018 Château Haut-Brion checks in as 49.4% Merlot, 38.7% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc brought up in a mix of new and used barrels. Ripe and sexy, yet also offering subtle aromas and flavors of blackcurrants, smoked earth, tobacco leaf, truffle, lead pencil, and minerals, it takes its time opening up but reveals a full-bodied, concentrated, multi-layered style carrying gorgeous tannins, flawless balance, and just a wonderful symmetry and elegance paired with beautiful richness. This noble, gorgeous Haut-Brion will benefit from 7-8 years of bottle age and cruise for 40 years or so.

Aromas of currants, leaves, fresh mushrooms, oyster shell, tobacco, and dried flowers, following through to a full body, yet ever so refined and polished and it grows on the palate. Lovely, energetic finish. Subtle and driven at the end of the palate.